Tuesday, March 12, 2013

Beagle Channel, Chile

Overcast and cold

 

I got up and quickly dressed, and was on the upper deck by 7:30 AM. We were already in the Beagle Channel nearing the western end of Glacier Alley. Over the next hour or so we sailed by several glaciers of various types. The sun started to break through, and the scenery is spectacular. But it is COLD. I can only stay on the outside deck for a short while.

 

I caught up with Marcia after breakfast and we spent most of the rest of the morning in the Crow’s Nest marveling at the vistas.  There is abundant wildlife in the Beagle Channel, especially dolphins and sea lions, both of which seem to enjoy leaping out of water beside the ship. They must be on the Holland America payroll.

 

We were soon opposite Ushuaia, Argentina, the southernmost city in the world, on the north side of the Beagle Channel. Ushuaia looks spectacular from the water – a modern city sloping up from the harbor toward the base of the snowcapped mountains behind. The snow is freshly fallen and the sun is shining (a rare event – the city gets only about 15 sunny days a year), adding to the beauty. We have to pass the city and then circle back around several islands before we can dock in Ushuaia.

 

Meanwhile, we played team trivia at 11:30 – we didn’t do that well because we didn’t know the name of the Veendam’s sister ship – and we had lunch while waiting to dock.

 

About 80,000 people live here. It was founded as a prison by the Argentina to lay claim to this portion of Tierra del Fuego. There is a ski resort and golf course, both are the southernmost in the world. Besides tourism, there is a large factory here that assembles electronic, and it is the largest employer in the city.

 

We had two hours to kill before our shore excursion, so Marcia and I headed into the city. From the port, the streets head steeply uphill. We walked one block, and then turned onto a level street. We browsed the shops – Marcia bought a headband, and we bought a carved wooden penguin to add to our travel collection. We also found Wi-Fi and I posted to my blog. Ushuaia is not as clean at Punta Arenas; I think the town looks better from the water. There were a number of empty store fronts as well, something we didn’t see in Punta Arenas. The most unusual sight was a restaurant that had a huge barbeque in the window with an entire cow roasting!

 

We returned to the ship in time to take the 4X4 Lumberjack Trail shore excursion. This one Debbie picked out – if it is a bust we are blaming it on her. There were two Land Rovers waiting outside the ship when we arrived.  We piled into the Land Rovers at 3 PM. There are 14 victims, I mean passengers, on this “adventure”. There are eight, plus our driver, Nicolas (from France), in our vehicle – we are piled in the back.

 

We drove a short distance out of town, and then turned off onto a gravel road, which soon became a dirt, or mud, road. At one point Nicolas drove the 4X4 up an embankment to avoid a mud hole, tipping the vehicle precariously.  But that was just the start.  We soon reached a stream where a beaver dam had caused a bridge to wash out. After surveying the situation, Nicolas drove over what can best be described as a cliff, across the stream, and up the other side.  Then we watch as the other vehicle attempted to duplicate the feat.  It initially got stuck, but ultimately made it across as well. The remainder of the trek was less challenging, but we were tossed about the inside of the 4X4 on numerous occasions. We stopped at a beaver pond to observe the damage this non-native species is causing. Originally imported to start a fur industry, the pelt proved inferior due to the mild climate, and the 25 pairs were released into the wild. With no predators, they now number 250,000. We finally returned to the highway and make a stop at a scenic overlook where Nicolas talked about the geology and ecology of the area.

 

Then we drove to the home of friend that sits high on a hill overlooking town. Everyone who lives on this hill is a squatter. It is quite a tale in itself that I won’t detail here. The owners built the home themselves, and acknowledge they made many mistakes. But is seems to work for them in spite of the total lack of services. Here they cooked us “lunch”, consisting of sausage sandwiches, steaks, and salad. But since it was served at 6 PM it created a dilemma: was this dinner? Marcia thought yes; I thought otherwise, as the steak wasn’t very good. They returned us to the ship about 6:45 – we sailed at 7:30. It was an interesting day, but as Marcia said, we don’t need to do that again. And the consensus was it wasn’t worth the money.

 

Debbie immediately headed for the early movie, which we thought was “Life of Pi.” Jerry joined us for happy hour, which went on until after 8:30. I wanted to get something more for dinner from the Lido, but discovered it closed at 7:30. So the main dining room was the only option. I had ribs, which were overcooked. Marcia had barramundi.  We went to the late movie, only to find “Life of Pi” is tomorrow. We returned to the cabin and retired.

 

 

Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Cape Horn

Partly cloudy and cool

 

I woke up before the alarm went off, dressed, and was on the deck at 6:50 AM. A few minutes later we rounded Cape Horn just as the sun was rising. The captain sounded the ship’s horn as we reached our southernmost point – 56 degrees South. We then sailed about a mile northeast past the Chilean naval station; it consists of a house, a church, and a flag pole. The population is currently four: the commander, his wife, and two children. He is on a one year assignment, and it is highly sought after. Why, I have no idea!

 

There is a monument next to the naval station in the shape of an albatross. It displays these words:

 

I am the Albatross who awaits you

At the end of the World

I am the soul of ancient mariners

Who crossed Cape Horn from all seas in the world.

 

They did not perish in the furious waves

Today they fly on my wings

For all Eternity

In the ultimate embrace of the Antarctic winds.

 

The captain was going to turn the ship around so those on the starboard side could see as well. I went to our cabin and woke Marcia up. She looked for a while through our cabin window, and then went back to bed. We returned to the Beagle Channel the same way we came.

 

We all gathered for breakfast about 9:30. I had picked up the daily quiz in the library – it was all about Cape Horn and the surrounding area. Jerry and I went to Benjamin’s talk on Cape Horn at 10 AM. I took the quiz sheet and filled it out as Benjamin gave us most of the answers.  Jerry helped me fill in the rest, and I turned our answers in at 10:45. By the way, I learned that by rounding Cape Horn, I’m entitled to wear a gold earring in my left ear and put one foot on the table. I think I’ll pass on the earring, but next time I’m at your house….

 

We sat in the Crow’s Nest and enjoyed the spectacular scenery. We saw a few penguins and a shipwreck along the way. The skies are clearing as the day progresses – quite unusual for this part of the world. After lunch we returned to the Crow’s Nest for team trivia; we would do a lot better if my team would listen to me. As the Crow’s Nest is one of the best (and most comfortable) places to view the landscape, we spent the rest of the afternoon here.  We back-tracked through the Beagle Channel, past Ushuaia and Glacier Alley. Since it is later in the day and even sunnier than yesterday, some of the views are even more spectacular. Phyllis and Rob joined us later in the afternoon.

 

Debbie & Jerry hosted happy hour before we headed to the dining room at 7:30. We were seated at a table for 10 with two couples and a single.  It is difficult to carry on dinner conversion at such a large table. We all had something different tonight. Marcia had a fresh water fish we had never heard of before, Jerry had pasta, Debbie had turkey breast, and I had braised brisket.

 

After dinner I went to the library to check on the daily quiz.  Jerry and I had won, and each received a deck of Holland America playing cards. That was too easy.

 

We all attended “Life of Pi” after dinner, although Debbie crashed half way through it. The movie was good, especially the special effects. But I don’t think it rated a Best Movie nomination, considering what it was up against. The movie didn’t end until nearly midnight. We retired shortly thereafter.

 

 

Thursday, March 14, 2013

Chilean Fjords

Clear and cool

 

I left the room about 7:30 this morning. I went to the library and then had breakfast at the Lido. I spent the rest of the morning in the Crow’s Nest. We are sailing the Chilean Fjords today. The scenery isn’t quite as spectacular as the Beagle Channel, but it is close, and the weather is unbelievable. The sky is cloudless. Crew members who have been here many times over the last several years say they have never seen weather this nice. The afternoon temperature was nearly 60 degrees.

 

Marcia did laundry this morning, and by the time she finished, it was nearly 11 AM and time for the Mariners Society brunch. This is the rewards club for repeat Holland America passengers.  We are Two Star Mariners; we will reach three star status when we get to 75 days – we will have 50 days at the end of this cruise. At four star status (200 days), you get free laundry – I doubt we will ever get there. It started with a few words from the captain and a champagne toast, and it lasted about an hour. The brunch was fine; we both had quiche. We were seated at a table for eight, and they weren’t the most outgoing group we have dined with.

 

We all gathered in the Crow’s Nest for team trivia at 1 PM. The questions were considerably harder today and we did okay – not winning, but finishing ahead of most of the pack.

 

Jerry and I went to the geology lecture at 2 PM, hoping to learn more about the local rocks. But it was more about global geology, so we didn’t learn much. I also went to the digital workshop on how to edit videos, which was quite useful.

 

By now it was 4:30 and we were approaching the Brujo Glacier at the end of one of the fjords. The many chunks of ice floating in the water were the clue the glacier was not far off. The ship is creeping along, as it isn’t rated for ice. The vistas are the most spectacular we have seen all day. There are many dolphins leaping around in front of the ship. I went to the bow to get a better view. Finally, we rounded the last bend and could see the glacier. It is very much like those we saw in Alaska. Usually the peak of the mountain behind the glacier is obscured by the low cloud deck. But with today’s clear skies that isn’t the case. The captain rotated the ship around so everyone could get a clear view of the glacier, and then we returned to the main channel via the same route.

 

We held happy hour in the Explorers Lounge so we could continue to enjoy the scenery while we drank our wine along with the cheese I stole at lunch time from the Lido.

 

Debbie and Jerry opted for the early movie again. We were seated for dinner at a table for six, with the couple from Marin Co. (our first repeat dinner companions), and a couple from Calgary. We both had lamb – it was good, but mine was overcooked.

 

The show tonight was a comedian, Bud Andersen. I have seen comedians on cruise ships before and often they are lame – lukewarm crowds don’t help. Bud Andersen had no such problem. He was VERY funny and had the crowd laughing almost immediately. His routine on “nothing” was particularly funny.

 

We checked the library for the daily quiz winner before retiring – it wasn’t me.

Friday, March 15, 2013

At sea

Clear and cool

 

I slept in until about 8 AM, eat breakfast in the Lido, and then spent much of the morning in the Crow’s Nest. We are cruising in the Pacific Ocean off the Chilean coast, too far offshore to see land. Later in the morning we neared the coast and were within sight of land the rest of the day. Occasional we see an Andean peak in the distance. But mostly we just see the lower mountains of the coastal range.

 

The seas are remarkably calm. The captain announced that these waters are usually rather rough, and he was using the excellent weather to cruise faster than scheduled – we should arrive at our next port about an hour early.

 

At 10 AM I attended a lecture about evolution, where Benjamin traced the concept all the way back to Aristotle. Then I returned to the Crow’s Nest; we forgot to participate in the scavenger hunt at 11:00.

 

Team trivia was at 1PM. The start was delayed briefly because a number of whale spouts could be seen off the starboard bow of the ship. Once again, we did alright, but didn’t win. This time we lost a point because I didn’t trust Jerry for a change. We continue to rise in the team standings, however.

 

We all had lunch after the trivia contest. Then Debbie, Marcia, and I walked two miles around the Lower Promenade Deck for exercise. It is cool, but mostly due to the wind chill generated by the ship. We see more whales spouting in the distance.

 

About 4:30 we arrived at the Darwin Channel and we are once again in the Chilean Fjords. We will follow this route to our next port, Puerto Montt, tomorrow morning. Although not as impressive as farther south, the scenery is still impressive. We sail past our first volcano. The skies are remarkably clear. We notice a number of what appear to be aquaculture structures; another passenger says they are farming salmon.

 

Happy hour started in the Crow’s Nest and moved on to our cabin later, where we had cheese from the Lido once again. Our wine supply is dwindling, but appears to be adequate for the remainder of the cruise.

 

It is the last formal night, so we dressed for dinner. We went to the dining room at 7:30 and we joined by the two older women from England once again. This is the Captain’s Farewell Dinner, and we all had the Surf n Turf, filet and lobster tail. It was exceptionally good.

 

We didn’t finish dinner until near 10 PM. Marcia and I caught most of the show. It was an excellent violinist from Poland. Marcia recognized her – we had seen her on the Rotterdam. At 10:45 we went to the Lido Pool for the dessert extravaganza. It was impressive, but once again, not up the Rotterdam standard. We were too full from dinner to eat much.  We did each have on crepe. We returned to the cabin and retired.

 

 

Saturday, March 16, 2013

Puerto Montt, Chile

Overcast and cool

 

By the time I got up, dressed, and left the cabin, we were pulling into Puerto Montt. The city sits at the northern end of the Chilean Fjords and is known as the “end of the road”, because both the railroad and the Pan Am Highway along the west coast both end here. From the ship it appears to be a very modern city, with many new buildings lining the harbor. Two volcanos are visible from this vantage point: Calbuco just to the northwest of town, and the very top of conical Osorno off in the distance. Both are snow covered. Osorno is the taller at about 8500 ft. We dropped anchor at 8:10; we will be tendering today.

 

We all gathered for breakfast before heading to the showroom at 10 AM for our shore excursions. Jerry and I are going white water rafting, while Debbie and Marcia are signed up for “A Taste of Chile”. We were all called at 10:30 and wound up on the same tender. That was the last we saw of the girls until 5:30.

 

Once ashore we all headed for our buses, except we only had a 15 passenger van; only 12 passengers signed up for this one, plus Barbara, a cute young Polish girl from the fitness center, our raft guide Colin, and our driver.

 

We immediately headed for the resort town of Puerto Varas, about 15 minutes away. Driving out of Puerto Montt reveals that the farther from the harbor you get, the poorer the neighborhood. We take a toll road to Puerto Varas and it is a good as an interstate highway.

                                                                                                                                              

Along the way Jerry and I were conversing with Barbara. She asked if Jerry and I were father and son. Jerry found that quite amusing. I told Barbara she will be going in the river.

 

Puerto Varas lies on Lake Llanquihue, Chile’s largest lake, and it is obviously a popular vacation destination, with hotels and cabins everywhere. The city appears to be very clean. We drive along the south shore of the lake in the direction of the impressive volcano Osorno. Outside of town we pass numerous pastures with grazing cattle and even a corn field.

 

At noon we arrived at a resort on the lake where we picked up our gear. We were each given a wet suit, waterproof jacket, and boots. We used the changing rooms by the pool to don this gear. It was another 15 minute ride to the river. The Petrohue River runs from the lake to the ocean, and it has a rather steep gradient.

 

We have two rafts, there will be six in one (the three couples) with Colin as the guide. Jerry and I and the five other singles will be in the other raft. Raul is our guide. We are given life jackets, helmets, and a paddle, along with the standard instructions. Then we hike about ¼ mile to the starting point. Raul puts Barbara at the very front of the raft without a paddle. I’m at the front on the starboard side, with Jerry right behind me. We practiced the commands for a while before heading down river. He asked for a raft name and one of the women suggested Super Seven. So on command we all raise our paddles to the center of the raft and shout “Super Seven”. In addition to the rafts, there is a photographer in a kayak. The “Super Seven” salute is for her benefit.

 

I’ve been on bigger white water, but never so much continuous white water. No need to dump Barbara overboard – she had a face full of water after the first big rapid and was continually drenched for the next hour. She looked like a drowned Polish rat. We rotated positions several times, but Barbara always remained the “hood ornament”.

 

The scenery as the river winds between volcanos is spectacular. Salmon spawn in this river and occasionally we see one leaping out of the water. At one point Raul suggested we take a swim in the river. Jerry and three others opted for a swim. I was wet enough and declined. The water wasn’t warm, but neither was it ice cold. I was quite comfortable in the wet suit and other gear.

 

The last 15 minutes was relatively calm water, although the current was still rather swift. Raul put Barbara on the oars and made her the guide for a while. She tried to maneuver the raft with the oars and by giving us commands, but all we did was spin in circles. Raul took command again and soon our wonderful raft adventure was over.

 

We changed out of our gear, and they had sandwiches and some snacks and drinks. The photographer showed the slide presentation she had prepared. Jerry bought one for the two us. Another passenger, Jen (who was part of our scavenger hunt team), had a waterproof camera and is willing to share the photos she took. At 3 PM it was time to return to the ship via the same route.

 

I was back on the ship by 4:30. I quickly went to the cabin and grabbed the computer, intending to take a tender back to shore to get Wi-Fi and post to my blog. But the next tender didn’t show up until 4:55, and the last tender was scheduled to leave at 5:30, meaning I would only have about 15 minutes. I decided my fans could wait a couple of more days.

 

Meanwhile, Marcia and Debbie were on a wonderful adventure of their own. First they went to the fish market in Puerto Montt where the chef selected hake. Next stop was the vegetable market a few miles away. There he selected cheese, eggs, onions, garlic, blueberries, apple cider, lemons, mussels, kelp, and a bag of assorted spices. As it was Saturday, the market was quite crowded. Next they stopped at a farm where the chef bought more fresh items.

 

Then they drove on to Puerto Varas to a restaurant where the chef prepared a wonderful lunch for the 21 passengers. Of course, lunch wasn’t served until after 3 PM. Marcia said it was the best meal of the cruise. Of course, having access to fresh ingredients and preparing a meal based on what looked best certainly helped. They never made it back to the ship until 5:30.

 

We had happy hour as usual, but opted to dine in the Lido instead because it was Indonesian and Pilipino night. It was an interesting meal, but not my favorite.

 

We caught the end of the early show – it was okay, another singer. Then we listened to the strings and also went to the piano bar. But Marcia said I was falling asleep (and that I was cranky too). So we retired to our cabin and I was in bed by 10 PM.

 

 

Sunday, March 17, 2013

St. Patrick’s Day & Jill’s Birthday

At sea

Partly cloudy and warming

 

Since I went to bed so early last night, I made it to the 7 AM Stretch Class for the first (and only) time. It is led by Barbara, and she does an excellent job. I should have been doing this the entire cruise, as I am really tight (in more ways than one). She convinced me to stay for the Ab Class as well – I should be in pain tomorrow morning.

 

About 9 o’clock I went back to the Fitness Center with an SD card and Barbara loaded it with photos from yesterday’s raft trip taken by Jen and the professional photographer. Meanwhile, Marcia did a last load of laundry. We ate breakfast, and then attended the Disembarkation Talk and Farewell Show, where they introduced much of the crew.

 

The skies have cleared and the sea is calm. The captain says they have never seen 13 consecutive days in this part of the world with such good weather. We have had one hour of rain and one day with rough seas.

We participated in team trivia one last time and achieved our best score, 17 out of 18, which still didn’t win. If only we had recognized 39 Stone Canyon Drive as the Flintstone’s address. As a team we finished about eighth overall, which was pretty good considering the number of sessions we had missed.

 

After lunch I had my first ever pedicure, while Marcia and Debbie walked a couple of miles. I bought two T-shirts from the ship, as I really didn’t purchase any souvenirs. Then we packed up our suitcases.

 

Happy hour was followed by the International Dinner, with an overwhelming number of choices. By the way, we have 1- ½ bottles of red wine left, having given a bottle of champagne away.

 

Marcia and I attended the last show; it was the same cheesy game show they staged the last night on the Rotterdam. We checked out the Crow’s Nest, but it was pretty dead, so we retired for the night. We have to be up early tomorrow.